Kenyatta A.C. Hinkle's "The Evanesced" exhibit spotlights missing black women

Monday, March 13, 2017
photo courtesy of the California African American Museum website
Tens of thousands of black women are missing in the United States.  The number is both staggering and heartbreaking, partly because their stories have not been highlighted by the media.

We all know about Elizabeth Smart, Laci Peterson, Natalee Holloway, and Chandra Levy, just to name a few of the most prolific missing persons cases involving white women.

But women like LaToiya Figueroa, a black and Hispanic woman who went missing and was eventually found murdered; and Tamika Huston, a black woman who was also found dead after being missing, only received coverage because of backlash against the "missing white woman syndrome."

There are still countless black women who are missing, whose stories are never told.

Kenyatta A.C. Hinkle, an interdisciplinary visual artist, writer, educator, and performer who lives and works in Los Angeles and Oakland, California is putting a spotlight on missing black women in American and the African diaspora, from history to the present, with her exhibit "The Evanesced."

The exhibit, which features drawings and a performance by Hinkle, is on view at the California African American Museum from March 2 through June 25, 2017.

From the California African American Museum: "Hinkle's abstract "un-portraits" of elusive figures--drawn with handmade brushes and while the artist improvises dances to blues, hip-hop, and Baltimore Club music--pivot between real and imagined narratives representing thousands of black women who have disappeared due to colonialism, human trafficking, homicides, and other forms of erasure." 

On April 27, 2017 Hinkle will perform The Evanesced: Embodied Disappearance in the gallery, during which she will evoke various types of women navigating historical and contemporary contexts. The piece--which includes a soundtrack of whispers, shuffles, and snippets of popular and underground music--adds another dimension to this emotional examination of a fraught part of the black female experience." 

Hinkle's work has been exhibited and performed at the Studio Museum in Harlem, New York; Project Row Houses in Houston, Texas; the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles, California; the Museum of Art at the University of New Hampshire; the Museum of the African Diaspora (MoAD) in San Francisco, California; and What If The World Gallery in Capetown, South Africa.

Givenchy pays tribute to the 12-year tenure of Riccardo Tisci

Tuesday, March 7, 2017
What's next at Givenchy?  No new successor to Riccardo Tisci has been named.
Photos throughout courtesy of vogue.com
Riccardo Tisci has left Givenchy after 12 years at the helm.  While a successor has yet to be named, the brand's creative thoughts are still with Tisci, as the studio team presented a fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection that paid tribute to the man who made the fashion house, and himself, global superstars.

The monochromatic red collect featured 27 of the most memorable and highly regarded looks based on previous ready-to-wear collections designed by Tisci, from his debut spring 2006 collection, to his final spring 2017 collections.  The numbers are representative of the season each look was inspired by.

Inspired by FW 07
The Bambi sweatshirt is there, as are the famous knee-high riding boots that were layered with heel-covering sheaths, and the shirts and jackets printed with abstract vestigial faces.  Tisci's aesthetic of sensual, dark romance; gothic symbolism; and religious motifs are all there.

Inspired by FW 13
Inspired by SS 15
Inspired by SS 06
Inspired by FW 08
Inspired by SS 11
Inspired by SS 10
Inspired by FW 14
Inspired by FW 12
Inspired by FW 12
Inspired by FW 09
Inspired by FW 10

Inspired by SS 16
Inspired by FW 15
Inspired by FW 15
Inspired by FW 14
Inspired by FW 10
Inspired by FW 10
The studio team chose red because Tisci used it often in his collections and it is a strong color.  WWD says the capsule collection is surely to become a collector's dream.  For retail, the pieces will be produced in nude and black and sold with a tag stating the season in which it originated.

Inspired by SS 13 Menswear
Inspired by SS 14
Inspired by SS 13
Inspired by SS 12
Inspired by FW 13
Inspired by SS 14
Inspired by SS 13
Inspired by SS 17
As I wrote this piece and looked back at each collection that this one was inspired by, I was reminded of what a true artist Tisci is.  His couture and ready-to-wear collections were always so creative and so well dreamt up.  He was a perfect creative successor to John Galliano, who helmed the brand for a brief time, and Alexander McQueen, also a creative director at Givenchy, but he was also able to retain the elegance and refinement that the house was known for, while adding his own touches that became synonymous with the brand.  

Take a look down memory lane at vogue.com.

Documentary looks at the life of fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez

Wednesday, March 1, 2017

Antonio Lopez, fashion illustrator, photographer
Jessica Lange...Jerry Hall...Grace Jones...Pat Cleveland...Tina Chow...some of the biggest fashion icons of the 1970s and early 80s and all discovered by the captivating fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez,  as well as Andy Warhol's girls - Donna Jordan, Jane Forth and Patti D’Arbanville among others. 


Lopez and Donna Jordan and Pat Cleveland
             
Lopez and Grace Jones



Lopez and Jerry Hall
Known mostly for his illustrations that appeared in Vogue, The New York Times, Interview, as well as couture and prêt-à-porter labels, Lopez was a major player in the fashion world for three decades, until his tragic death at age 44 from complications of AIDS.









Aside from his vivid, innovative illustrations, Lopez was a genius with a camera, capturing the seductive, fast life of disco, fashion, drugs, and sex.  These photographs are some of the best fashion photography I have ever seen - sexy, glamorous, decadent, and fun.


Iris Chacon

Grace Jones

Grace Jones

Karl Lagerfeld
Grace Coddington

Pat Cleveland

Tina Chow

Michael and Tina Chow

Jessica Lange

Jerry Hall
A new documentary film by James Crump, Antonio Lopez 1970: Sex Fashion & Disco, looks at the influence of Lopez on the fashion scene in the 70s, from New York to Paris and the lives that he touched along the way, which aside from his aforementioned muses included Karl Lagerfeld, Bill Cunningham, Bob Colacello, Charles James, and frequent collaborator Juan Eugene Ramos.



The film charts Lopez's charts his humble beginning, Puerto Rican, Bronx raised living in lower Manhattan in the late 1960s seeking creativity, pleasure, and like minds in the fashion and art scene during a tumultuous period of war protests, political assassinations, and unrest.


Lopez and Ramos
 It moves on to Lopez and Ramos' journey to Paris, where they become fast friends with Karl Lagerfeld and embark on a wild time, punctuated by social and cultural change.  Homosexuality and gender fluidity was flourishing, sexual promiscuity and clubbing fueled their evenings, as the emergence of ready to wear dominated traditional couture and inspired their work, and Lopez began to make his biggest discoveries and lasting marks on the fashion world.



Lopez returned to New York in the 1980s, his creativity jump started by the cultural shifts taking place in the city and his love of fashion and art.  Lopez had a new crop of designers to influence his work, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, and Vivienne Westwood, as well as the emerging, colorful hip hop scene.  He collaborated with icons such as Crazy Legs, Doze, Pop Master Fabel, and Mare 139 through portraits, performances and murals.


Lopez and Andy Warhol
This colorful, youthful energy fueled and sustained Lopez even as his final years began to creep up on him.  Soon, AIDS would become rampant, cutting a swath through the fashion, art and music scene and claiming the lives of so many of the brightest icons of that age.  It was a decline of an idyllic time of decadence and exuberance and a beginning of a sobering reality of dwindling mortality. 

Lopez and Yves Saint Laurent
From the director:  I became fascinated with Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos through Interview magazine when I was a young teenager in rural Indiana. Their magical lives and milieu aroused me to no end and made me fantasize about the early 1970s in New York and Paris–a period I was too young to experience. In 1997, I met Paul Caranicas, Antonio’s and Juan’s heir who since that first meeting gave me unlimited access to many thousands of drawings, photographs and 8mm and 16mm films and video.

Given the elements of race, ethnicity and sexuality that Antonio injected into fashion–a Puerto Rican-born, Bronx-raised bisexual–the film needed to be produced now at a moment when Latino, African-American and LGBTQ rights and issues are still being contested and underrepresented in dominant media and culture. Antonio, envisioned what the future could look like–he is an ideal emblem of freedom and attainability worth remembering, especially now in the current post-election malaise. 



The film will be released early this year.